Ask Dajewel

I was reading the first 3 ingredients for Ecostyler Olive Oil Gel and I wanted to know what Carbomer was? Also Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein was number 3.


Thanks!

Loved your breakdown about glycerine. I've been perm-free now for almost 2 years and I've been cutting the perm out a few inches at a time. I wear braids and the glycerine has been really good with allowing my folices to regain its elasticity back. What are your product recommendations as I continue towards my quest to natural. By the way, I love my hair without that damn' perm. Its a completely different texture that I'm falling in love with... I have thick hair that is definately a 4a with a touch of the c family. As I continue towards this natural journey, my hair has a thick curly texture.... I'm loving it.... [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

sweetdrk1 wrote:Hey honey!

I am so impressed with you!!!

ok I need help. I just purchased the big bottle of smooth as silk condidtioner from the Giovanni line. When I just used as a conditioner it was fine..but when I added the AfroVeda pur whipped Jelly as a styler my twist got hard. Crys says it is probably the protien...any thoughts?

am curious, by any chance did you use the afroveda pur whipped jelly by itself as a styler?

i don't think it was the protein because the only product that has protein in the aforementioned duo is the smooth as silk conditioner from the giovanni line. i had a look at the ingredients in both products, and i am thinking that the hardness probably comes from the inappropriate interaction of the emulsifier in the smooth as silk condish with the ingredients in the afroveda pur whipped jelly. the pur whipped jelly has no emulsifier.

the emulsifier used in the giovanni condish is cetyl alcohol. cetyl alcohol has many functions in condish, shampoos and styling aids; usually the function is dependant on location in the ingredients' list. cetyl alcohol is also used as softening agent and a mild cleansing agent.

an emulsifier is used to keep the oils mixed in aqueous (water) solution or keep the aqueous solution mixed in the oils, thereby keeping the whole product stable and intact to appropriately do its job. cetyl alcohol has a very long hydrocarbon chain which would be compatible with organic (oils) species, and thus appropriate to use in water in oil solutions. this makes perfect sense because the first ingredient in the condish is water which are then followed by lots of oils.

the afroveda pur whipped jelly's first ingredient is water and also followed by oils. the thing is i think the cetyl alcohol's emulsifying action is not enough to accommodate the added aqueous in oil solution that is the afroveda pur whipped jelly. i believe this because of the location of the cetyl alcohol in the ingredient list (towards the end) which means there isn't enough in the condish to help mix the afroveda pur whipped jelly. because there isn't enough of the cetyl alcohol to mix the water and the oils together explains why ur hair felt hard/crunchy.

hth!

@dajewel~

My hair is just starting to grow from my big chop and i just want to be sure i dont use anything damaging to my hair. I heard so much about Organic Roots Stimulator Lock & Twist Gel so i tried it, it was GREAT best twist out ever!!!....But it has 2 Paraben's in it how damaging is this to the hair??

Water, Coconut Milk (Coca Nucifera), Soybean Oil, (Glycine Soja), PVP, Polyqaternium 37, Propyln Paraben, Methyl Paraben, DMDM Hydantoin, Propylene Glycon, Fragrance (Parfum) Sucrose

Thanks in advance!

Curly Film Chick wrote:hey, I finally have a question!

Not sure if you answered this already, but what ingredients provide "hold" for the hair? Gel, hairsprays, and setting lotions provide it for the hair but what's in it?

hi there!

the main ingredient in products that give hold for the hair are:
1)aloe vera gel (ex. Afroveda Pur Whipped Gelly, Kinky Curly Curling Custard, IC fantasia gel)

2)natural polymers, such as resins from plants
-gum arabic from trees (ex. i read a couple of years ago about a company that sales an all natural hairspray $48, but i don't remember the name)
-vegetable gums
-Gum tragacanth

3)a variety of synthetic polymers, esp copolymers:
-for strong hold: polymers that include acetates, methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydrides, acrylates, PVPs ( polyvinylpyrrolidone, Vinyl Acetate, Crotonates, Vinyl Neodecanoate, Octylacrylamide, Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate. good example is Herbal Essence Tousle Me Softly Spray Gel
-for weak hold: polymers that have been modified with silicones (for example, a polymer with acrylates combined with silicone). silicones, in this respect, is not used for the hold, but gives the hold more of a natural flexibility

Hi Dajewel-

I have a question for you. My hair loves Organics Root Stimulator Hair mayonnaise, but I am a bit weary of the products-

Water (Aqua), Polyquaternium 32, Glycerin, Safflower Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Olive Oil (Olea Europaea), Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Lanolin, Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Cholesterol, Stinging Nettle (Urtica Dioica), Capsicum Extract (Paprika), Hydrolyzed Keratin, Egg Powder (Ovum), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, DMDM Hydantoin (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methyl Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben, Brown No. 1 (CI 20170), Fragrance (Parfum), Benzyl Benzoate, D'Limonene, Linalool, Alphaisomethylionone.

I am guessing that this is a light protein treatment???? I read in one of your blogs that you have a list of ingredients that work well with your hair. I am trying to do the same because when I seem to try different things my hair hates it! So my question to you is what are the "bad" ingredients in this product that I should avoid. Also do you think from reading this product list, that I may be able to do a more natural "copy cat" version of this product....Thanks in advance for your help.

Hey Dajewel,

I have a question. Is silk powder a type protein?

@Dajewel

I know I'm almost a month late on my response but THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH for your help on the Softsheen Carlson Dark & Lovely Beautiful Beginnings Kids Braid Maintainer & Refresher!!!!!!


Wow! That break down was so thorough and helpful! I'm glad the
product is basically an awesome product.....& IT DOES in fact have
a distinct, lasting smell...which like you said is probably a result of
the proplyene glycol!


I'm bout to take my kinky twists out and I just went through a whole bottle & hoping I have some intense growth!

Thanks again =)

Hey Dajewel,

Let me begin by saying this forum is very informative, thanks for sharing all your knowledge... I am four months natural and am still learning the in/outs of healthy products for my hair and have a question about a product I used in my perm days. Before I toss it out I am curious as to whether or not it can be used on natural hair.

The product is Garnier Fructis Long & Strong Leave In. The top five ingredients are:
1) Aqua/Water
2) Cyclopentasiloxane
3) Propylene Glycol
4) Hydroxypropyl Guar
5) Phenoxyethanol

Thanks in advance.

Hey Dajewel
I might put this in the wrong place first time so its on here twice.........sorry.....



I found this great conditioner by nuNATT called Naatcream. I read the indigridents when i brought it but somehow missed the two big cones at the end of the list. I used it on my hair and it works/feels soooo good and I really want to be able to use it. But before i fall totally in love i want to know if the two cones listed are absolutely horrible for our hair. They are Methylcloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone. I think the first one is a perservative, but i could be wrong. So are they okay or do i need to trash this conditioner?

Thanks.

Hi Dajewel,

I'm a newbie to all of the different products and I have no idea what my hair likes but i was trying a coconut oil by Dabur called Vatika which has all natural ingredients except the last ingredient is TBHQ t-butyl Hydroquinone. Is this one of the dreaded "cones"? Thank you for answering my question.

AfrikanLatina wrote:Hey dajewel,

I'm thinking of making some whipped shea butter and I want it to have scent. I've seen in a couple of places online where people say they add food extracts(vanilla extract, lemon extract, coconut extract, etc.) to their mix. Is this safe to do or would the mix need to be stored in the refrigerator? Should I just bite the bullet and buy some fragrance oils? My mix would include shea butter, coconut oil, and olive oil. Thanks in advance sis. You're the best!

hey, there!

the difference between food extracts and eo is the amount of alcohol present which has a direct correlation with the intended usage. food extracts are used as a flavorant while eo are used to harness the healing properties and scent of said oils. because food extracts are used as a flavorant explains why most food extracts tend to be made mostly of alcohol with a little bit of the extracts while eo mostly contain the extracts themselves. the alcohols, which are used to enhance flavor, that is usually present in food extracts are propylene glycol or benzyl alcohol. both alcohols are considered GRAS by the FDA. if the food extract has benzyl alcohol, then it is safe to use in small amounts; so, you would have to take in consideration how often you will be using the final product that contains benzyl alcohol in food extracts. fyi: FDA has approved products marketed for both adults and infants that contain 5% benzyl alcohol for elimination of head lice (because it is an anti fungal agent). i have seen research results that suggest that benzyl alcohol is even safe when it it makes up 10% of the finished product.

also, you would have to take in consideration quality and price/use when comparing the pros and cons of food extract and eo use.

hope this helps

Intelligentbeauty wrote:

dajewel wrote:

Intelligentbeauty wrote:So here is another question that for some reason bothers me. I know why mineral oil and petrolatum is not good for the hair. But alot of our (black) products have that in it. And I know why, but when I was a perm head I used those products and my hair was healthy and grew to bra strap length. Both my sisters have long hair. One has a little past bra strap and the other has a little below shoulder length hair. So they see my textured short hair and they hear me talk about perms and these ingredients but they dont get it. My hair was growing and theirs are growing now. What gives?

when your hair was bsl, was it permed or relaxed? do your sisters have long relaxed hair or long natural hair? how long have you and your sisters have had relaxed hair? Also, can you clarify " My hair was growing and theirs are growing now"? Thanks!

My hair was long and permed (sorry, I thought permed and relaxed were the same thing??). My mom began relaxing my hair at the start of high school. I was a press and curl prior to that. My sisters have long, full healthy permed hair now.

Yes, I am sorry I do need to clarify that....lol. Not hair growth but the length retention and health was the same for all 3 of us permed. Even though I used (and they still use) all those bad ingredients.

Sorry for the confusion: permed and relaxed is the same thing. I have no clue why I even asked that...smh

relaxers/perms on kinky, curly, coarse hair don't grow your hair; they just simply straighten the kinks and curls which give the illusion that your hair is getting longer. relaxers/perms straighten the hair by decreasing the amount of the amino acid cysteine. cysteine is responsible for 70% of the coarse, curly, kinky nature of our hair. so, a decrease in cysteine means decrease integrity of the hair which means fragility and breakage. the amino acid cysteine contains sulfur which is needed to 'hydrogen bond' with another cysteine amino acid which means increased strength of hair. in fact, there is an article that was published last week that firmly concludes that relaxers damage hair; 'Relaxers' damage hair: evidence from amino acid analysis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2010 Mar;62(3):402-8. Keep in mind that the harsh basicity of relaxers will strip the little moisture that is present in our naturally dry hair so much so will encourage even more fragility.

when you mean "healthy", what exactly do you mean? how is the elasticity of their hair? i think it is very telling that you mentioned hair retention as opposed to hair growth. hair retention is very telling because it means while your hair is growing at the same rate/month, you are trimming off the same amount due to damaged ends. what type of regimen do they adhere to on the regular? always remember that relaxed heads require roughly 3x more moisture and protein when compared to natural heads. If your sisters do not have a solid regimen to promote moisture and protein retention, then it is only a matter of time that they experience breakage.

tHANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT. THERE REGIMEN IS GOING TO THE SALON EVERY WEEK.... [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] .

BTW, I AM LOVING YOUR NEW AVATAR. FABULOUS!!! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Intelligentbeauty wrote:ALSO, I had another question, since you talked about hair oils before. My mother in law and I were wondering if it is possible that hair oils can make your hair hard and dry once dried. My mother in law who has 4b-c course texture hair was saying when she does the oil tx, her hair is nice and soft when wet. However, once it's dry, it is very dry and hard "like no body's business" (in her words). I was experiencing a little of that too. Lots of shine but dry and hard before adding other products when dried. Please explain.

Thanks in advance. You are FABULOUS!!!

what oil(s) did you and your mother use to dc? do you cold rinse your dc mix out of the hair? there are few oils (evoo, evco and avocado oil) that are proven to penetrate the hair shaft (http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc2003/cc054n02/p00175-p00192.pdf). do keep in mind that you may have been used to how 'traditional' commercial conditioners feel on the hair when dried because of added emollients, and is probably why you let your hair dry??

Intelligentbeauty wrote:tHANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT. THERE REGIMEN IS GOING TO THE SALON EVERY WEEK.... [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] .

BTW, I AM LOVING YOUR NEW AVATAR. FABULOUS!!! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

your welcome!

what do they in between salon visits? hair care (just like proper foot care) is a cooperative effort between your cosmetologist and you; you can't just leave your hair in the hands of your cosmetologist. what products are being used in the salon?

thanks so much for the compliment!

Flyychik23 wrote:Hi Dajewel,

We are both members of the Orlando Natural Hair Meet-Up! I wanted to meet you at the X-mas party but you didn't make it...mayb next time. I have a couple of questions. Have you tried henna? If so, how did you like it? What are the benefits of using henna? Can I use henna if I am protein sensitive?

hi, flychick! Sorry for being MIA for all of the meet-ups! I plan on going to the next one.

I have never tried henna or cassia (but may try cassia later this year or maybe next year?). Henna and cassia are great ways to strengthen your hair. To make sure the henna/cassia is not adulterated (which can pose hair damage and other health complications), make sure to get pure henna/cassia. Refer to http://www.butters-n-bars.com/henna_info.html for info about purity and benefits.

Other ways to strengthen the hair are with herbal extracts and protein. I am still doing my research on 'protein sensitive,' as I believe there is no such thing so much so that you need to follow up with a major deep conditioning.

HTH

LearninToLove wrote:Has anyone asked about the ingredients in ICFantasia Aloe Vera Gel? Is it good to use or not?

here are the ingredients of:

Purified Water Aqua , Glycerin (humectant) , Carbomer (filler) , Triethanolamine (pH adjuster), Aloe Vera Gel , Dimethicone Copolyol, Tocopherol Acetate (official technical name for Vitamin E), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (take caution if you have wheat/gluten skin allergies) , Polysorbate-20, Benzopehonoe-4 (sunscreen) , Methylchloroisothiazolinone (preservative because it is antibacterial and anti fungal), Methylisothiazolinone (preservative used in water-based solutions) , Disodium EDTA (preservative because sequesters possible metals), Fragrance

Glycerin(aka glycerol): is a triol (an alcohol with three -OH groups). It is a humectant that provides smoothness and moisture. Its antifreeze properties allows the product to not freeze at terribly low temperatures. Glycerol, when not mixed with water, will either attract water from the atmosphere or water from your hair. However, glycerol when mixed with appropriate water ratio, can be used on the hair even in the winter time. Yes, I know: its like all believed that the world is flat, and here I come debunking common knowledge. Why is this?? All atoms have a signature vibration that are affected by temperature. Atoms/molecules move faster in high temperatures while they slow down in low temperatures. At high temperatures. the glycerin and water molecules are not closely packed and are moving fast, which means more of a chance that glycerin -OH can hydrogen bond with the increased water (humidity) usually associated with spring and summer, thereby taking the moisture from atmosphere. At low temperatures, the movement slows down, the molecules are closely packed, which means glycerin -OH are hydrogen bonding with glycerin -OH and or water that was mixed with the glycerin. So, the use of glycerin/water mixture in the winter is not detrimental to your hair.

carbomer is used an inexpensive and nonreactive filler/thickener. when i mean "filler" i literally mean to take up space and stabilize the product. it has no added benefit for the hair, but simply for the look of the product. is quite possible that it is the carbomer that causes some flakes or dryness for some people and is why a good moisturizer should be used underneath this gel.

aloe vera gel is used as a moisturizer and curl definer. the aloe vera gel used in the product was treated because the product is a clear white. aloe vera gel is usually treated to lock in the freshness and nutrients. at this time, i cannot be positive if aloe vera gel has the maximum amount of nutrients because we do not know how/when the plant was harvested. also, I cannot conclude if the aloe gel is made from preparation from the aloe gel powder.

Dimethicone Copolyol is a dimethicone (i.e. silicone derivative). it's purpose is to give the hair shine and make the hair fuller (that is why it is manufactured in the derivative form). it is easier to wash out of the hair compared to dimethicone because the derivative has a lot of hydroxyl (water compatible) substituents.

Polysorbate-20 is used as a nontoxic stabilizer. Polysorbate-20 kinda give the product a wet feel to the touch. I worked on an extensive method validation with polysorbate-20 use in an arthritic medication while working at Amgen.

Fragrance: although they list 'fragrance' we don't know what they are using for parfums. companies have the ability to not disclose the specific ingredients in their fragrances because its considered to be proprietary information. FDA does allow the word 'parfum' to be listed in the ingredients list. so, technically speaking, this product is not considered to be adulterated

so, it seems to be a pretty descent product despite the low price.

Pinkrage wrote:DaJewel,

I came across this hair shake that people SWEAR makes your hair grow. You drink it daily and most notice growth within 2-3 weeks.

Hair Cocktail Ingredients:
3/4 glass of whole milk (I used SilkSoy Vanilla)
1 raw egg
1 tblspn raw wheat germ oil
2 tblspns raw wheat germ
for flavor, you may add a piece of fruit in season

Can you tell me what in this shake causes hair growth? I know the wheat germ is high in Folic Acid. There are usually high doses of folic acid in prenatal pills. Does folic acid make your hair grow?

hey, there!

there is no short cut to getting longer hair faster unless you were not eating a healthy well-balanced diet to begin with. all the ingredients in this shake should be part of your daily diet. eating a well-balanced daily diet helps make your hair grow stronger and shinier.

Yes, folic acid is definitely needed in hair growth, and is used to treat certain alopecia. I wouldn't take prenatal pills unless you are pregnant because the pills are designed to supply nutrition to two people.

hth

HAMPTONSFNST wrote:Hi Dajewel,

I wanted to know if you could explain to me the negative benefits of using humectants during this time of year? I live in Long Island, NY. My home is near the beach and I currently moisturize daily with either African Pride's Braid spray or my own mix of agua, glycerin, leave-in condish, tea trea and peppermint oils. I make sure I seal with either my whipped shea mix or jojoba oil.

Hi, there!

There are no consequences of using humectants in the winter months if they are mixed appropriately with water, aloe vera gel or any other solvent that has characteristics similar to water. Yes, I know: its like all believed that the world is flat, and here I come debunking common knowledge. Why is this?? All atoms have a signature vibration that are affected by temperature. Atoms/molecules move faster in high temperatures while they slow down in low temperatures. At high temperatures. the glycerin and water molecules are not closely packed and are moving fast, which means more of a chance that glycerin -OH can hydrogen bond with the increased water (humidity) usually associated with spring and summer, thereby taking the moisture from atmosphere. At low temperatures, the movement slows down, the molecules are closely packed, which means glycerin -OH are hydrogen bonding with glycerin -OH and or water that was mixed with the glycerin. So, the use of glycerin/water mixture in the winter is not detrimental to your hair.

HTH!

DAJEWEL!! YOU MAKING IT HAPPEN BABY!!! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!

SMOOCHES

thank you, Sheetacular!!!!!!!!!!

Hello again lovely,

My question is on cones. I have noticed since the BC, that my cone leave in condishs make my hair dry and "icky". So, I want to eliminate these products. However, I have so many of them. Can I use them in a cowash? examples are: mixed chicks, HE (all 3 types), bioinfusion olive oil tx.

I am just not sure if the cones will stick even though I am rinsing them out.

Mizani has a new line called True Textures which is supposed to be for natural hair. I'm found the complete list of the ingredients to all the products. But I'll just post the one that looked the most interesting. Lol

MIZANI
True Textures Perfect Curl Defining Cream Gel

INGREDIENTS

AQUA / WATER
DIMETHICONE
GLYCERIN
SORBITOL
PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM / MINERAL OIL
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
PEG/PPG-4/12 DIMETHICONE
GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE
PHENOXYETHANOL
PARFUM / FRAGRANCE
POLYQUATERNIUM-37
PVP
METHYLPARABEN
VP/DIMETHYLAMINOETHYLMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER
DISODIUM EDTA
SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS OIL / JOJOBA SEED OIL
PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL / APRICOT KERNEL OIL
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
ETHYLPARABEN
INULIN
PPG-1 TRIDECETH-6
COUMARIN
2-OLEAMIDO-1,3-OCTADECANEDIOL
TRIETHANOLAMINE
PHOSPHORIC ACID

@dajewel

Love this, love this, love this! I haven't posted any questions yet, but I have learned so, so much from you and reading everything here. Such a fabulous job with the answers and I can tell just from reading that you have a great personality and a beautiful spirit. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] Keep up the good work and know that you are definitely an asset to curlynikki.com! Thanks for all that you do!