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Ask Dajewel

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Post by AfrikanLatina 31st December 2009, 12:45 am

Hey dajewel,

I'm thinking of making some whipped shea butter and I want it to have scent. I've seen in a couple of places online where people say they add food extracts(vanilla extract, lemon extract, coconut extract, etc.) to their mix. Is this safe to do or would the mix need to be stored in the refrigerator? Should I just bite the bullet and buy some fragrance oils? My mix would include shea butter, coconut oil, and olive oil. Thanks in advance sis. You're the best!
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Post by Lynnieluve 31st December 2009, 12:51 am

ALatina, have you thought about essential oils for scents? I love lemongrass.
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Post by AfrikanLatina 1st January 2010, 3:48 pm

I need to step up my EO game. All I have ever used are Rosemary, Peppermint, Tea Tree, and Lavender. I'm going to look into some other scents and maybe they'll double as preservatives. Wish me luck. Smile
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Post by Intelligentbeauty 2nd January 2010, 2:42 am

dajewel wrote:
Intelligentbeauty wrote:So here is another question that for some reason bothers me. I know why mineral oil and petrolatum is not good for the hair. But alot of our (black) products have that in it. And I know why, but when I was a perm head I used those products and my hair was healthy and grew to bra strap length. Both my sisters have long hair. One has a little past bra strap and the other has a little below shoulder length hair. So they see my textured short hair and they hear me talk about perms and these ingredients but they dont get it. My hair was growing and theirs are growing now. What gives?

when your hair was bsl, was it permed or relaxed? do your sisters have long relaxed hair or long natural hair? how long have you and your sisters have had relaxed hair? Also, can you clarify " My hair was growing and theirs are growing now"? Thanks!


My hair was long and permed (sorry, I thought permed and relaxed were the same thing??). My mom began relaxing my hair at the start of high school. I was a press and curl prior to that. My sisters have long, full healthy permed hair now.

Yes, I am sorry I do need to clarify that....lol. Not hair growth but the length retention and health was the same for all 3 of us permed. Even though I used (and they still use) all those bad ingredients.
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Post by Intelligentbeauty 2nd January 2010, 3:14 am

ALSO, I had another question, since you talked about hair oils before. My mother in law and I were wondering if it is possible that hair oils can make your hair hard and dry once dried. My mother in law who has 4b-c course texture hair was saying when she does the oil tx, her hair is nice and soft when wet. However, once it's dry, it is very dry and hard "like no body's business" (in her words). I was experiencing a little of that too. Lots of shine but dry and hard before adding other products when dried. Please explain.

Thanks in advance. You are FABULOUS!!!
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Post by Flyychik23 2nd January 2010, 7:21 am

Hi Dajewel,

We are both members of the Orlando Natural Hair Meet-Up! I wanted to meet you at the X-mas party but you didn't make it...mayb next time. I have a couple of questions. Have you tried henna? If so, how did you like it? What are the benefits of using henna? Can I use henna if I am protein sensitive?

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Post by LearninToLove 5th January 2010, 11:08 pm

Has anyone asked about the ingredients in ICFantasia Aloe Vera Gel? Is it good to use or not?
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Post by Pinkrage 6th January 2010, 11:34 am

DaJewel,

I came across this hair shake that people SWEAR makes your hair grow. You drink it daily and most notice growth within 2-3 weeks.

Hair Cocktail Ingredients:
3/4 glass of whole milk (I used SilkSoy Vanilla)

1 raw egg
1 tblspn raw wheat germ oil
2 tblspns raw wheat germ
for flavor, you may add a piece of fruit in season

Can you tell me what in this shake causes hair growth? I know the wheat germ is high in Folic Acid. There are usually high doses of folic acid in prenatal pills. Does folic acid make your hair grow?
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Post by HAMPTONSFNST 8th January 2010, 2:12 pm

Hi Dajewel,

I wanted to know if you could explain to me the negative benefits of using humectants during this time of year? I live in Long Island, NY. My home is near the beach and I currently moisturize daily with either African Pride's Braid spray or my own mix of agua, glycerin, leave-in condish, tea trea and peppermint oils. I make sure I seal with either my whipped shea mix or jojoba oil.
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Post by dajewel 10th January 2010, 2:31 am

naturallyunique wrote:Hi Dajewel! I need some help. First of, lemme say your credentials are AMAZING AND IMPRESSIVE!!! You better go ahead girl! I love seeing women in science doing BIG THANGS! I'm a scientist & future doctor, by God's grace! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Alrightey....here's my question. I used this product: Softsheen Carlson Dark & Lovely Beautiful Beginnings Kids Braid Maintainer & Refresher (whew long name lol) as a braid spray/moisturizer when I had senegalese twists at the beginning of 2009. My hair was so soft & moisturized & it grew FASTER than it has ever grown w/ some extensions...it was AMAZING!! So, I was looking to use it again now that I just got some kinky twists since I'm transitioning and need something to moisturize and grow my hair out before I BC.

But, I was looking at the ingredients again and noticed some parabens towards the end =/ I know there's something wrong with them but I just don't really know what. Also, it has the glycerin which can dry out the hair in winter and I'm not so sure bout the propylene glycol.. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] Can you please help me evaluate this product? Should I find another alternative?? Any suggestions?

I LOVE IT SO MUCH!! I dont wanna let it go!! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Here are the ingredients:

Aqua/Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Oleth-20, Dicetyldimonium
Chloride, Cocos Nucifera/Coconut Oil, Panthenol, Silybum Marianum Ethyl
Ester, PEG-75 Lanolin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium
EDTA, Parfum/Fragrance, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben.

Thanks for your help in advance!

hey, there!!

Glycerin(aka glycerol): is a triol (an alcohol with three -OH groups). It is a humectant that provides smoothness and moisture. Its antifreeze properties allows the product to not freeze at terribly low temperatures. Glycerol, when not mixed with water, will either attract water from the atmosphere or water from your hair. However, glycerol when mixed with appropriate water ratio, can be used on the hair even in the winter time. Yes, I know: its like all believed that the world is flat, and here I come debunking common knowledge. Why is this?? All atoms have a signature vibration that are affected by temperature. Atoms/molecules move faster in high temperatures while they slow down in low temperatures. At high temperatures. the glycerin and water molecules are not closely packed and are moving fast, which means more of a chance that glycerin -OH can hydrogen bond with the increased water (humidity) usually associated with spring and summer, thereby taking the moisture from atmosphere. At low temperatures, the movement slows down, the molecules are closely packed, which means glycerin -OH are hydrogen bonding with glycerin -OH and or water that was mixed with the glycerin. So, the use of glycerin/water mixture in the winter is not detrimental to your hair.


Propylene Glycol: is a diol (an alcohol with two -OH groups). It is a petrochemical bi-product that serves as a humectant, emulsifier, moisturizer and fragrance carrier (btw: does the product have a distinct, strong and/or lasting smell? If so, propylene glycol could be the reason for the this). Propylene glycol also has anti-freeze properties. it can easily be absorbed by the skin. studies have shown that it can cause liver, brain and kidney abnormalities which can lead to cancer.

Oleth-20: polyethylene glycol ethers of an alcohol. used as a fragrance stabilizer/deliverer

Dicetyldimonium Chloride: cationic (this is good because hair is negatively charged) quaternary ammonium salt that is a conditioning agent that is used specifically to prevent hair fly-aways. makes hair easy to comb.

Cocos Nucifera/Coconut Oil

Panthenol: this is another name for provitamin B5, and softens hair, makes hair shiny, humectant and moisturizer.

Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester: this is milk thistle. its an antioxidant and is ubber moisturizing.

PEG-75 Lanolin: polyethylene derivative of lanolin that helps to form emulsions. lanolin comes from sheep. the number represents the average number of ehtylene oxide units. they are used as a conditioning agent, hair softner and gives hair its smoothness.

Tocopheryl Acetate is the technical name for Vitamin E

Phenoxyethanol: a glycol ether that is used as a bactericidal preservative and perfume fixative. usually used in conjunction with a quaternary ammonium salt (Dicetyldimonium Chloride from above). fda has issued a warning against it, stating that it can 'depress the central nervous system...cause vomiting and diarrhea'

Disodium EDTA: a widely used presevative because its a metal chelating agent.

Parfum/Fragrance: although they list 'Parfum/perfume' we don't know what they are using for parfums. companies have the ability to not disclose the specific ingredients in their fragrances because its considered to be proprietary information. FDA does allow the word 'parfum' to be listed in the ingredients list. so, technically speaking, this product is not considered to be adulterated.

Methyl paraben and ethyl paraben: Are parabens that are used as a preservative, specifically as anti-fungal and antibacterial agents. They are p-hydroxybenzoic esters. Methly paraben can be found in blueberries. Methly and ethyl parabens are cheap and very effective. They are quickly hydrolyzed/metabolized and excreted from the body. Acute toxicity studies on rats show parabens are practically non-toxic. Other studies show that due to weak protein competitive binding, the parabens are noncarcinogenic. They are also generally nonmutagenic. Still, there is research that suggests that parabens are skin allergens even at low concentrations, and is why they are last in the ingredient list.

maybe your hair wasn't being conditioned properly, and this product gave the hair the conditioning that it needed. by any chance did you massage your scalp more often? also, a good alternative is a basic glycerin and water mix (at 60% glycerin). HTH

jamaicacurl wrote:First of all dajewel, you are doing a great job on here and I'm highly impressed! You're such a wealth of knowledge!

Ok so now I have question for you: Among other products that I've read about staying away from to promote healthy hair, it seems that parabens are kind of iffy. But I know some of my products contain them. What exactly are parabens and how are they good and bad for the hair?

Methyl paraben and ethyl paraben: Are parabens that are used as a preservative, specifically as anti-fungal and antibacterial agents. They are p-hydroxybenzoic esters. Methly paraben can be found in blueberries. Methly and ethyl parabens are cheap and very effective. They are quickly hydrolyzed/metabolized and excreted from the body. Acute toxicity studies on rats show parabens are practically non-toxic. Other studies show that due to weak protein competitive binding, the parabens are noncarcinogenic. They are also generally nonmutagenic. Still, there is research that suggests that parabens are skin allergens even at low concentrations, and is why they are last in the ingredient list. HTH!
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Post by Freestyles 10th January 2010, 1:21 pm

First of all - How the heck did I miss this thread? Love it! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Dajewel can you weigh in on this? [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

The Infamous MISS JESSIE'S BABY BUTTERCREAM: [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] My hair loves this stuff! When I use it my hair feels soft, moisturized, and smells great! Unfortunately, I hear so many negatives from other curlies pertaining to the ingredients I'm starting to feel a bit guilty for using it. Am I causing damage to my scalp or tresses by using it? [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Many complain about the use of cheap ingredients such as Mineral Oil and how the product is grossly overpriced. Though probably true, my main concern is damage, not price. HELP!

Here are the ingredients:
Deionized Water, Acetylated Lanolin, Beeswax, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Carbomer940, Fragrance, Castor Oil, Dilaurarte Laneth 15, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Animal Protein, Imidazolidinyl, Jojoba Oil, Laneth 15, Mineral Oil, Methyl Paraben, Milk Protein, Panthenol, Paraffin, Peg-400, Peg-100, Stearate, Petrolatum, Propyl Paraben, Triethanolamine, Vitamine E, Wheat Germ Oil.


Thanks in advance,
---Reese [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
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Post by Lynnieluve 10th January 2010, 4:42 pm

Freestyles wrote:First of all - How the heck did I miss this thread? Love it! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Dajewel can you weigh in on this? [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

The Infamous MISS JESSIE'S BABY BUTTERCREAM: [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] My hair loves this stuff! When I use it my hair feels soft, moisturized, and smells great! Unfortunately, I hear so many negatives from other curlies pertaining to the ingredients I'm starting to feel a bit guilty for using it. Am I causing damage to my scalp or tresses by using it? [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Many complain about the use of cheap ingredients such as Mineral Oil and how the product is grossly overpriced. Though probably true, my main concern is damage, not price. HELP!

Here are the ingredients:
Deionized Water, Acetylated Lanolin, Beeswax, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Carbomer940, Fragrance, Castor Oil, Dilaurarte Laneth 15, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Animal Protein, Imidazolidinyl, Jojoba Oil, Laneth 15, Mineral Oil, Methyl Paraben, Milk Protein, Panthenol, Paraffin, Peg-400, Peg-100, Stearate, Petrolatum, Propyl Paraben, Triethanolamine, Vitamine E, Wheat Germ Oil.


Thanks in advance,
---Reese [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I like MJ Baby Buttercream too but I only use it once a month, if that much. I also use a sulfate shampoo afterwards.
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Post by jamaicacurl 10th January 2010, 5:04 pm

dajewel wrote:
jamaicacurl wrote:;]First of all dajewel, you are doing a great job on here and I'm highly impressed! You're such a wealth of knowledge!

Ok so now I have question for you: Among other products that I've read about staying away from to promote healthy hair, it seems that parabens are kind of iffy. But I know some of my products contain them. What exactly are parabens and how are they good and bad for the hair?

Methyl paraben and ethyl paraben: Are parabens that are used as a preservative, specifically as anti-fungal and antibacterial agents. They are p-hydroxybenzoic esters. Methly paraben can be found in blueberries. Methly and ethyl parabens are cheap and very effective. They are quickly hydrolyzed/metabolized and excreted from the body. Acute toxicity studies on rats show parabens are practically non-toxic. Other studies show that due to weak protein competitive binding, the parabens are noncarcinogenic. They are also generally nonmutagenic. Still, there is research that suggests that parabens are skin allergens even at low concentrations, and is why they are last in the ingredient list. HTH!

Thanks! Based on what you described here, I don't see a harm in them. I'm very glad to know that they are not carcinogens and non-toxic. I will keep in mind though, the skin allergen part. You're the best!
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Post by Dorian 11th January 2010, 8:22 pm

Hey Dajewel,
I am in awe of all this info. I just took in all 5 pages at once and it's great!!!! I think it's wonder how faithful you are in responding to the questions. I can tell that you enjoy what you do.

I want to know what is your hair type? What is/are your tried and true, holy grail fravorites; and why do you like them?

BTW: I tried the coconut and olive oil as a deep conditioner with heat, then I decided to leave it in. I liked the effect it had on my tresses. Would you recommend this or should I rinse it out? Would using this condition once a week be over kill? Do you have any other good DC recommendations? Thanks in advance.

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Ask Dajewel - Page 5 Empty Pure Lanolin

Post by fanmnatirel 11th January 2010, 11:11 pm

Hi Dajewel,
I thing you are a genious! seriously! and your hair looks amazing.

Do you know anything about pure Lanolin beside the fact that it is wool's wax?
I put it in my hair for the first time this afternoon because my ends were feeling odd. I'm just hoping my hair won't fall off...lol [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
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Post by dajewel 12th January 2010, 5:06 pm

Melinda wrote:Hi Ladies,
I am sooo happy 2 b n the fold. Question or comment, since we have a number of contributors in the medical and related fields; I submit that the hair growth rate is at least 65% genetic and the remaining 35% hair care.

Hey, there!!

All hair grow pretty much at the same rate each month (an average about half an inch to a 3/4 of an inch), but the nature of our curls and kinks make it look like our hair doesn't grow as much as someone who has naturally straight hair. Genetics is the biggest factor in growth rate, but not as much as 65%. You could be predisposed to growing longer-looking hair, but due to factors such as illness, age, hormonal imbalance, diet, stress, excessive heat, excessive relaxers, lack of conditioning, lack of protective styles, etc can stiffle the natural length that your hair is capable of having.

Hair and genetics is an interesting research topic; researchers still have a hard time honing in who contributes (the mother and/or father) and how the genes are naturally distributed/modified in their children.

Still, I submit as a chemist (because am not a geneticist and would appreciate someone who is so to weigh in) an interesting research finding: an indicator of hair growth, texture, density, etc is the maternal lineage in your family. The gene that is responsible for our hair is wrapped up in mitochondrial DNA(mtDNA). The mother and the baby have the same mtDNA (this is why the hair is used in forensics). It has been shown that mtDNA can be from the father, but its most of the time from the mother. So, looking at the natural hairs those in your maternal lineage will supposedly give you a pretty good idea as to how your hair will look, feel and grow. Still, this finding doesn't conclusively explain other issues, such as baldness and children of interracial couples.
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Post by dajewel 12th January 2010, 7:29 pm

tiashauntee wrote:dajewel,

I am a mixtress and I use a lot of foods that could potentially spoil if not stored in the refrigerator or used quickly. I'm wondering....are there any essentials oils that double as preservatives? The one mix in particular I would like to preserve is the Aloe Gro mix. The Aloe Vera gel container says to keep refrigerated after opening so of course I am keeping the mix in the refrigerator also. However, spraying cold aloe vera one my head in the winter time is no fun. Any suggestions?

YouTube video for Aloe gro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pdINFrPqm0&feature=player_embedded

The mix contains:
Organic Aloe vera gel
Rosemary EO
Peppermint EO
Distilled Water
I also put Tea Tree EO in my mix.


tiashauntee

hey, there!!

the mode of mechanism to promote tea tree oil's preservative purpose have been studied. To date, studies have shown that tea trea oil is a preservative with many purposes: antifungal, antiviral, antimicrobial and antiprotozoal. Tea tree is generally roughly effective in a mixture for about 12 months when used at room temp, opened and closed often and not placed out of direct light.

rosemary oil can be an antioxidant (due to the carnosic acid, caffeic acid and Rosmarinic acid) and antibacterial (due to the Rosmarinic acid) agent, and thus, a preservative. it also has camphor, and this makes the eo a slight anti-microbial agent.
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Post by DawnieMich 13th January 2010, 1:36 pm

Hi Dajewl,

Was wondering if you've had any luck with the following;

Re: Ask Dajewel


[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] by dajewel on 29th December 2009, 7:47 pm
DawnieMich wrote:Hi Dajewel,

I
recently purchased Herbal Essence Tousle Me Softly Spray Gel and was
curious as to if it was safe to use on my hair. Here are the
ingredients;

Ingredients: water, pvp, chitosan, lactic acid, peg-40
hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 20, phenoxyethanol,
fragrance/parfum, methylparaben, peg-60 almond glycerides, polysorbate
80, disodium edta, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol.

I
used a little bit of this product last night and the hold is awesome.
I'm a 4b and I did a twist out using a leave in and a couple sprays of
the TMS gel. I sealed with a coco-shea-mint moisturizer that a friend
made for me. Let me know your thoughts.

am on it!!
Thanks mucho,
Dawn


I really appreciate the time that you put into these responses.

Thanks,
Dawn

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Post by dajewel 13th January 2010, 1:43 pm

DawnieMich wrote:Hi Dajewl,

Was wondering if you've had any luck with the following;

Re: Ask Dajewel


[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] by dajewel on 29th December 2009, 7:47 pm
DawnieMich wrote:Hi Dajewel,

I
recently purchased Herbal Essence Tousle Me Softly Spray Gel and was
curious as to if it was safe to use on my hair. Here are the
ingredients;

Ingredients: water, pvp, chitosan, lactic acid, peg-40
hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 20, phenoxyethanol,
fragrance/parfum, methylparaben, peg-60 almond glycerides, polysorbate
80, disodium edta, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol.

I
used a little bit of this product last night and the hold is awesome.
I'm a 4b and I did a twist out using a leave in and a couple sprays of
the TMS gel. I sealed with a coco-shea-mint moisturizer that a friend
made for me. Let me know your thoughts.

am on it!!
Thanks mucho,
Dawn


I really appreciate the time that you put into these responses.

Thanks,
Dawn


am currently working on the analysis on this product.
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Post by Ellagirl 17th January 2010, 12:12 am

Hi Dajewel!

I occasionally use conditioners with silicones, and am wondering if black soap and castile soap are sufficient to clarify the hair after using one of those conditioners? Thanks!

Bump...


Last edited by Ellagirl on 19th March 2010, 11:01 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Question hasn't been answered)

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Post by tiashaunteé 17th January 2010, 12:31 am

Question about preservatives - Are there any scent free ones that I can use in my hair concoctions? Or do you have a list of all the essential oils that are preservatives?
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Post by dajewel 18th January 2010, 6:24 pm

DawnieMich wrote:Hi Dajewel,

I recently purchased Herbal Essence Tousle Me Softly Spray Gel and was curious as to if it was safe to use on my hair. Here are the ingredients;

Ingredients: water, pvp, chitosan, lactic acid, peg-40
hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 20, phenoxyethanol,
fragrance/parfum, methylparaben, peg-60 almond glycerides, polysorbate
80, disodium edta, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol.

I used a little bit of this product last night and the hold is awesome. I'm a 4b and I did a twist out using a leave in and a couple sprays of the TMS gel. I sealed with a coco-shea-mint moisturizer that a friend made for me. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks mucho,
Dawn

PVP is the industrial shorthand for the synthetic polymer, Polyvinylpyrrolidone. It has a multitude of uses in cosmetics: gives hold to hair, helps to add luster, holds oil and aqueous components in solution (an emulsifier),etc. Its position in the ingredient list is a testament to the hold that you have experienced. PVP, as far as I can tell, is generally regarded as safe (GRAS) when used as a cosmetic. Regardless, I did come across a study (from as far back as 1973) which showed localized carcinogenic growth in rats with repeated subcutaneous administration (injected under the skin) or inhalation. Keep in consideration that even though you are not injecting the product, you are administering it topically, and as such, you may or may not see the same result. Luckily, there are naturally-derived polymers that are alternatives to PVP, such as AMAZE XT. I do not know of any specific product lines that are using AMAZE XT.

chitosan is made from modification of chitin. chitin comes from shellfish. chitosan is used to further condition and soften the hair without the aid of shampoos or typical conditioners. Chitosan has free amino acid (basic) groups that need to be neutralized, and i strongly believe it is the lactic acid, which comes from milk, that is used to neutralize the free amino groups. The corresponding salt formed will be a neutral species. This is a classic example of an acid-base reaction: the acid and base neutralize each other to form water an a salt.

peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil is the polyethylene glycol derivative of castor oil. the derivative of castor oil is used to further enhance castor oil's functions while make it a type of a non-ionic (weak) surfactant (emulsifier). It is GRAS.

polysorbate 20 is GRAS and used as an surfactant/emulsifier, especially for keeping perfumes in solution.

Phenoxyethanol: a glycol ether that is used as a bactericidal preservative and perfume fixative. fda has issued a warning against it, stating that it can 'depress the central nervous system...cause vomiting and diarrhea'

Parfum/Fragrance: although they list 'Parfum/perfume' we don't know what they are using for parfums. companies have the ability to not disclose the specific ingredients in their fragrances because its considered to be proprietary information. FDA does allow the word 'parfum' to be listed in the ingredients list. so, technically speaking, this product is not considered to be adulterated. So, i suggest use products that list 'parfum/fragrance' with caution.

Methyl paraben: Is a paraben that is used as a preservative, specifically as anti-fungal and antibacterial agents. Methly paraben can be found in blueberries and can be synthetically-made. Methly paraben is very effective. It is quickly hydrolyzed/metabolized and excreted from the body. Acute toxicity studies on rats show parabens are practically non-toxic. Other studies show that due to weak protein competitive binding, the parabens are noncarcinogenic. They are also generally nonmutagenic. Still, there is research that suggests that parabens are skin allergens even at low concentrations, and is why they are last in the ingredient list.

peg-60 almond glycerides mild conditioning agent derived from almond oil. it doesn't irritate the skin. it adds to softness and glide between the hairs. due to cost concerns, you will usually see this used with polysorbate 20 (at lower percentage than polysorbate 20 --->lower on the ingredient list).

Polysorbate 80 usually used with polysorbate 20 to help disperse fragrance, especially in products that spray. not as much polysorbate 80 is needed in compared to polysorbate 20 because the former has a higher molecular weight than the latter. GRAS

Disodium EDTA: a widely used presevative because its a metal chelating agent. GRAS.

ethylhexylglycerin: conditioning agent because its a diol (ie. humectant). a modified-vegetable ingredient. can be a skin-irritant for even those with sensitive skin.

tocopherol: another name for vitamin E
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Post by Kea::curls 19th January 2010, 1:48 pm

Hi Dajewel!!!

I'm still in the background, quietly following this WONDERFUL topic! So...now I will stand in line behind all the others when asking my question Smile

Background info: --> i have been using baking soda to clarify (instead of using shampoos). I've done this twice now (once per month). I add 1 cup of Suave conditioner to 1/2 cup of baking soda and apply onto my hair in a smoothing fashion that does NOT rub harshly on the hair follicles (i.e. not raking it through the hair).

Now, Here's where I get confused...
Some people use the baking soda to clarify, while others use it as a deep conditioning and moisturizing treatment (but they use Apple Cidar Vinegar Rinse to clarify?). Still, others claim that the baking soda treatment loosens their curls No I was .:: upset ::. when i heard this last claim...!!! because i do NOT want to change/loosen my curl pattern (as I already have enough problems twisting the "loose" regions as it is!)

Here is my current understanding of the baking soda/Apple Cidar Vinegar rinse:

1. Baking soda treatment opens up the hair follicles that have been "sealed" by build-up (therefore removing build-up).

2. By combining baking soda with a conditioner, the conditioner is able to penetrate and moisturize the hair.

3. following the baking soda treatment with an Apple Cidar Vinegar rinse, will again seal the hair follicle (like when you rinse with cold water), thereby reducing frizz.


Will the ACV rinse work to remove build-up on its own?

***note: I personally have not noticed any loosening of my curl pattern after 2 uses (once per month), but could it potentially become a problem after repeated use?

Please let me know if my understandings are correct and help me dispell any myths to the best of your ability. Thanks !!! Cool
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Post by DawnieMich 19th January 2010, 3:24 pm

dajewel wrote:
DawnieMich wrote:Hi Dajewel,

I recently purchased Herbal Essence Tousle Me Softly Spray Gel and was curious as to if it was safe to use on my hair. Here are the ingredients;

Ingredients: water, pvp, chitosan, lactic acid, peg-40
hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 20, phenoxyethanol,
fragrance/parfum, methylparaben, peg-60 almond glycerides, polysorbate
80, disodium edta, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol.

I used a little bit of this product last night and the hold is awesome. I'm a 4b and I did a twist out using a leave in and a couple sprays of the TMS gel. I sealed with a coco-shea-mint moisturizer that a friend made for me. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks mucho,
Dawn

PVP is the industrial shorthand for the synthetic polymer, Polyvinylpyrrolidone. It has a multitude of uses in cosmetics: gives hold to hair, helps to add luster, holds oil and aqueous components in solution (an emulsifier),etc. Its position in the ingredient list is a testament to the hold that you have experienced. PVP, as far as I can tell, is generally regarded as safe (GRAS) when used as a cosmetic. Regardless, I did come across a study (from as far back as 1973) which showed localized carcinogenic growth in rats with repeated subcutaneous administration (injected under the skin) or inhalation. Keep in consideration that even though you are not injecting the product, you are administering it topically, and as such, you may or may not see the same result. Luckily, there are naturally-derived polymers that are alternatives to PVP, such as AMAZE XT. I do not know of any specific product lines that are using AMAZE XT.

chitosan is made from modification of chitin. chitin comes from shellfish. chitosan is used to further condition and soften the hair without the aid of shampoos or typical conditioners. Chitosan has free amino acid (basic) groups that need to be neutralized, and i strongly believe it is the lactic acid, which comes from milk, that is used to neutralize the free amino groups. The corresponding salt formed will be a neutral species. This is a classic example of an acid-base reaction: the acid and base neutralize each other to form water an a salt.

peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil is the polyethylene glycol derivative of castor oil. the derivative of castor oil is used to further enhance castor oil's functions while make it a type of a non-ionic (weak) surfactant (emulsifier). It is GRAS.

polysorbate 20 is GRAS and used as an surfactant/emulsifier, especially for keeping perfumes in solution.

Phenoxyethanol: a glycol ether that is used as a bactericidal preservative and perfume fixative. fda has issued a warning against it, stating that it can 'depress the central nervous system...cause vomiting and diarrhea'

Parfum/Fragrance: although they list 'Parfum/perfume' we don't know what they are using for parfums. companies have the ability to not disclose the specific ingredients in their fragrances because its considered to be proprietary information. FDA does allow the word 'parfum' to be listed in the ingredients list. so, technically speaking, this product is not considered to be adulterated. So, i suggest use products that list 'parfum/fragrance' with caution.

Methyl paraben: Is a paraben that is used as a preservative, specifically as anti-fungal and antibacterial agents. Methly paraben can be found in blueberries and can be synthetically-made. Methly paraben is very effective. It is quickly hydrolyzed/metabolized and excreted from the body. Acute toxicity studies on rats show parabens are practically non-toxic. Other studies show that due to weak protein competitive binding, the parabens are noncarcinogenic. They are also generally nonmutagenic. Still, there is research that suggests that parabens are skin allergens even at low concentrations, and is why they are last in the ingredient list.

peg-60 almond glycerides mild conditioning agent derived from almond oil. it doesn't irritate the skin. it adds to softness and glide between the hairs. due to cost concerns, you will usually see this used with polysorbate 20 (at lower percentage than polysorbate 20 --->lower on the ingredient list).

Polysorbate 80 usually used with polysorbate 20 to help disperse fragrance, especially in products that spray. not as much polysorbate 80 is needed in compared to polysorbate 20 because the former has a higher molecular weight than the latter. GRAS

Disodium EDTA: a widely used presevative because its a metal chelating agent. GRAS.

ethylhexylglycerin: conditioning agent because its a diol (ie. humectant). a modified-vegetable ingredient. can be a skin-irritant for even those with sensitive skin.

tocopherol: another name for vitamin E


Hmm.....ok....yeah....not really feeling the side effects. lol. Thank you so much your your review of the ingredients. You are serving your sisters well. ')" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]


Do you know of any natural mixes that are good for hold? I hear the aloe gel is good. Any suggestions as to what I can add to give the aloe a good kick?

Thanks,
Dawn
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Post by NhappyJackie 21st January 2010, 12:44 pm

Hey Dajewel..... I finally have a question for you!!!!!

What are the chances that my daughter's hair will respond to products in the same manner as mine?I am wondering b/c my oldest daughter is transitioning right now. My hair hates olive oil. It makes my hair very dry and hard. I found out that African's Pride Organic Kids line of products has a detangling moisturizer in it but it contains olive oil. It also has a few proteins in it that my hair doesn't care for either.
She and I have the same hair texture.

What are the chances that her hair will frown at this product?

Here is the ingredient list: Water- Aqua, , Propylene Glycol, , PEG 150 Distearate, , Cetyl Alcohol, , Polyquaternium-37, , Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, , PEG-1 Trideceth-6, , Soybean Oil- Glycine Soja, , Glycerin, , DMDM Hydantoin, , Cyclomethicone, , Phenyl Trimethicone, , Lanolin Oil, , Glyceryl Stearate, , PEG-100 Distearate, , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copo, , Methylparaben, , Propylparaben, , Stearalkonium Chloride, , Fragrance- Parfum, , Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, , Cocoa Seed Butter- Theobroma Cacao, , Carrot Seed Oil- Daucus Carota Sativa, , Shea Butter Fruit- Butyrospermum Parkii, , Yellow No. 5, , Red No. 40, , Blue No. 1, , Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, , Olive Fruit Oil- Olea Europaea, , Mink Oil- Mustela, , Jojoba Seed Oil- Simmondsia Chinensis, , Tocopherol, , Tea Tree Leaf Oil- Melaleuca Alternifolia, , Egg Powder- Ovum, , Milk Protein- Lactis Proteinum, , Honey- Mel, , Silk Amino Acids, , Cholesterol, , Corn Oil- Zea Mays, , BHT, , BHA, , Coconut Oil- Cocos Nucifera, , Safflower Seed Oil- Carthamus Tinctorius, , Rosemary Leaf Extract- Rosmarinus Officinalis, , Nettle Extract- Urtica Dioica, , Horsetail Extract- Equisetum Hyemale,

And I have one more question......My hair doesn't respond to shampoos and condishioners well that contain proteins like soy or milk or the hydrolized stuff. But, my gel has Wheat protein listed as one of the ingredients and it doesn't make my hair hard or dry at all. Is that typical?

Thanks for your help.
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